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4) Checking Root Development
1) Harvesting/Drying | 2) Soil | 3) Planting | 4) Root development | 5) Re-potting
Photos below are from 3 to 4 weeks into the rooting process—the third week of May.
Yuk! Rotting occurs in about 5 out of 100. This can be 100% rot if you try to root out of season, water cuttings too soon, or if the cutting is infected to begin with.
When do you start to water?
When you have root buds, then you have to stimulate fine root growth. I take a watering wand and walk quickly down the isle lightly sprinkling the cuttings.

When you see the ribs of new growth cuttings suck in (look at these above, near the soil line) they are stressed. My rooting house is over 100 degrees each day so I use a mister and lay down a light droplet cloud on them.
New growth and/or flowering does not mean you have a rooted plant. Even an unrooted tip will continue to grow; an unrooted columns section will bud and grow tips yet not have roots.

Tips and columns flower without being rooted. So do not pay any attention to these events.

The only way to check for roots is to pick up the cutting. When it picks up its flower pot with itself, holding onto its soil, then you have a rooted plant.
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Dry cuttings are set into dry soil in a dry rooting house.

The keys to rooting are summarized in the PDF handout sheet.

Download the Cacti Rooting Tutorial PDF (900K)...

1) Harvesting/Drying | 2) Soil | 3) Planting | 4) Root development | 5) Re-potting

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